Punjab, the “Land of Five Rivers”

4-29 October 1979

Punjab, the “Land of Five Rivers”, has been a cradle of ancient civilisation and spiritual heritage for millennia. Once part of the Indus Valley Civilisation, it later became a centre of learning and empire, ruled by the Mauryas, Kushans, and Mughals. In the 15th century, Guru Nanak founded Sikhism, and Punjab became the heart of the Sikh faith. The city of Amritsar, established in 1577 by Guru Ram Das, houses the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib) — Sikhism’s holiest shrine, symbolising equality and devotion, surrounded by the sacred Amrit Sarovar lake.

In the 19th century, Maharaja Ranjit Singh united Punjab under the Sikh Empire, with Lahore as its capital, until British annexation in 1849. The Partition in 1947 divided Punjab between India and Pakistan, causing immense upheaval and migration. Indian Punjab rebuilt itself with new cities and agricultural strength, becoming the “granary of India” during the Green Revolution. Its modern capital, Chandigarh (shared with Haryana), was designed by Le Corbusier as a symbol of renewal — an architectural masterpiece of order and optimism. Today, Punjab blends rich history, spiritual depth, and vibrant culture, with Amritsar’s shimmering temple and Chandigarh’s modern geometry embodying its enduring spirit.

A village seen from the train, west of Amritsar in Punjab.

Two Indian children in the train from Lahore to Amritsar

The Golden Temple, known as Sri Harmandir Sahib, meaning “abode of God” or Darbār Sahib, (“exalted court”), a Gurdwara, a place for assembly and worship, in Amritsar.

Marble stairs at the Golden Temple, Sri Harmandir Sahib, (“abode of God”) or Darbār Sahib, (“exalted court”), the holiest Gurdwara and the most important pilgrimage site of Sikhism.

View of the Sri Harmandir Sahib, the Golden Temple.

Women making chapattis, in the kitchen at the Golden Temple in Amritsar. Food is served to all visitors who want it, regardless of faith, gender or economic background.

Men baking chapattis; the Golden Temple is an open house of worship for all people, from all walks of life and faiths, and food is served to all visitors who want it.

An elderly Sikh man, prostate in the courtyard at the Golden Temple, the Harmandir Sahib, the holiest Gurdwara and the most important pilgrimage site of Sikhism.

Three young Sikh boys wearing a "rumal", covering their hair as a sign of respect in the temple. Sikhs don't cut their hair and it is tied in a knot (joora or rishi).

A house in Chandigarh, a Union Territory serving as capital of both Punjab and Haryana, an experiment in urban planning and modern architecture.

Shopping centre in Chandigarh, a city planned by French architect Le Corbusier.

The Secretariat building in Chandigarh, one of the best experiments in urban planning and modern architecture in the twentieth century in India.

Rickshaw stand in front of shops in Chandigarh.

Cyclists on a traffic square in Chandigarh, one of the earliest planned cities in post-independence India.

A young shoeshine boy polishing sandals in Chandigarh.